The mix depends on the stength of substrate being rendered. Lime is like part B of a masonry epoxy. Mortar / Render / Plaster. So my first question is how do I mix the render (ratios etc) and secondly how thick can it go on or how many layers should I apply to get a reasonable finish for paint. Posted on January 28, 2016 October 25, 2019 by Cornish Lime — 18 Comments Curing Lime Renders & Mortars. This can be achieved by adding pozzolans (materials such as dust from soft and low-fired bricks) or using a natural hydraulic lime without additives (strong hydraulic limes, however, should be avoided). A mix of render isn't lime based its sand based. The use of a pre-mixed lime render that can cope with walls prone to salt contamination maybe required. Lime plaster finishing coats can be a little richer at 2 parts sand to 1 part NHL and will usually include a finer sand. Mortars for building, pointing and render base coats 2.5 parts sharp sand to 1 part NHL. While a non-hydraulic render may be appropriate in certain circumstances, in many cases a mix with a faster and harder set might be desirable. You are trying to achieve a 3 to 1 aggregate matrix ratio. The lime makes it more workable and dries nice and light. After reading advice on this forum I have decided to use a lime render to do this, but I have never worked with lime before. https://swansroad.blogspot.com/2006/05/my-recipe-for-lime-putty-and-lime.html Lime Plastering Application Process, Internal Solid Walls The first coat is known as the ‘scratch coat‘, because the surface is scratched with lines to give a key for the next coat. Also you shouldn't have any rendering done on hot sunny days when the sun is on the wall as this will bake the render … Freeflo shouldn't be used on lime based mixes. Typically a light agg block would receive a 4.1.1 scratch ( washed sand/sharp sand/cement) and top with 6.1.1 ( Washed sand/ hydrated lime/ cement) Always bucket guaged. The mix used is usually one part lime putty to two and a half parts of coarse, sharp, well-graded sand. If you use straight cement no lime the mix will go off real fast. Hi the mix i always use is 4 level buckets or rendering sand to one level bucket of cement don't put lime in as this creates suction! Slightly more cement in a block mix helps it to go off a bit faster so the blocks don't sink or shift. After a Lime Render has been placed it must be allowed time to to cure/fully hydrate before it acquires strength and hardness.Curing is the process of keeping the mortar/render under a specific environmental condition until hydration is relatively complete. As a "replacement" element there may still be enough uncarbonated lime to add some additional strengthening to the mix. so no need for bob standard feb. you should add a waterproofer eg: freeflow. Old lime mortars used in "core work" inside the mass of the wall or in some old plasters/renders can remain uncarbonated for centuries, if not longer, and some never reach full strength in these protected locations. The mortar will segregate when trying to slide spread to the side of the block. Also if it dries in a bit quick it is easier to splash and bring back . Techniques of Hydraulic Lime Plastering The techniques employed in the application of hydraulic lime plasters should be to ensure a correct bonding with the background while … No freeflo in traditional lime mixes. The cementone integral waterproofer we use has very good plasticising qualities . In winter add a shovel of lime in the scratch and that will make it pull in quicker! 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